Now Nicaragua

This post is a combination of multiple dialouges that I have written over the last month. I tried to go back and create a single and coordinated description, but I leave in two hours for El Salvador so you will just have to make due....ENJOY.....I KNOW I AM!!!!!!

Belize is a beautiful and expensive country to say the least. While there I stayed in Belize City, Caye Caulker, San Pedro and San Ignacio in that order.

I arrived in Belize City on a very rainy day. Luckily I found a place to stay and had somewhat of an uneventful night. The next day I took a water taxi to Caye Caulker which sits right on the second biggest barrier reef in the world. The ride out there and the island itself were incredible. Palm trees, clear water and sandy beach is the best way to describe this area. The island itself had only a few beaches to lounge around on, but certainly enough to relax. While on Caye Caulker I swam, snorkeled and canoed around the island. I love this place!

San Pedro which is just 20 minutes from Caye Caulker shares most of the same physical features. However, this island is much more expensive and populated with tourists. Golf carts were everywhere and I had to be careful as to not be run over. Many docks protruded from the beach line which obstructed the view quite a bit. Although, I did find a dock that had chairs to lay out on and a hammock at the end. This was perfect.

I stayed on the two islands for a week and a half total. I then went back to the mainland and on to the western side of Belize to San Ignacio. There I met up with a nice guy Martin who I had met on the islands. Over four days or so we hung out and he showed me around. We visited Mayan ruins, went swimming at a river and played soccer. I had a great time to say the least.

Also, while in San Ignacio it was Easter Weekend. Here they call it Semana Santa and it is a huge deal. Processions walk great distances as they remember and celebrate Jesus’ Resurrection. The whole town shuts down on Friday, and all weekend long people are with their families.

Belize Pictures:

Below is the harbor in Belize City.

Sometimes it is unbelieveable what one can see on the ocean. Here you see a big rig truck floating on a boat....no wonder everything is so expensive on these islands!

When I went snorkeling at the reef I was blown away by the diversity and natural beauty. I cannot say how many different species of animals and coral I saw. Below are a few pictures that a fellow snorkeler sent me. I am grateful to have these, although these pictures are only the tip of the ice berg.....I love sea turtles! They are so big!

My first stop in Guatemala was in a town called Flores. This was another resort town. It actually is an island. This island is totally surrounded by concrete barriers separating it from the lake. I loved swimming in this lake. With a friend I met we swam out to an island that was who knows how far out. This is basically how I spent my time there. Swimming, hanging out on other parts of the lake and going down water slides.

I wish that I had the video of me going down the slides. When I got to the bottom I was going really fast. This would give the perspective of the velocity I shot into the water at. It would be a great visual for the following statement. ..On my first trip down the slide four or five kids were standing in the slide at the bottom. The first boy pretty much jumped over me. The next few tried to go to the side of the slide. I grazed them and this thankfully slowed me down just a bit. The last boy did not really move at all. Since I was going feet first I ended up getting a crotch shot at nearly full speed. I did try my hardest to use my arms and legs to slow myself. However, this only marginally worked and created much pain and eventual scabbing to my body. Needless to say the final blow stopped me completely in my tracks. I am sure the whole thing would have been hilarious to watch. Especially as I let screaming ¨porque porque¨. Right after that I ran up the stairs to do it all over again. Although, this time I went down the slide head first….You can tell where my priorities are here. Luckily there were no more children on the slide any more times.

After Flores I went to a Eco Hotel that my friend Corrin Maul referred me to. Thanks Corrin!

The Eco Hotel where I stayed is called Finca Ixobel, which is located south of Poptun. I spend five wonderfully relaxing days here. The scenery was beautiful, the food delicious, the accommodations cheap and comfortable, soccer youth very skilled and the people both working there were friendly and hospitable to say the least. I also met some very nice fellow travelers.

I stayed in a great second story room all to myself with no electricity. I would read by candle light in my personal hammock. During the days I would swim and sit by the pond, play soccer with who ever came out for the day and hike around the beautiful grounds.

Note about soccer in Central America – The players here are amazing. They start as soon as they can walk I not only imagine but have seen with my own eyes. Without shoes they become very skillful with the ball, and their feel become incredibly tough. I on the other hand only have strong feet for and USAn (American does not really fly here with people from all over the Americas) and had to stop playing one day after I ripped off part of my foot. However, this would not stop me from hiking.

I befriended a really nice woman Maria who became my hiking buddy. She and I climbed ¨the temple¨ together and also got lost in a local cave by ourselves. The seriousness of this misdirection cannot be underestimated.

Here is the story.... The Hotel offered numerous day trips to local caves, horseback riding and more. I ventured out on my own one day to find the cave that was nearest to us. I found the opening but did not go in because it was nearing dusk and I did not want to hike back on my own at night. So, I returned the next day with Maria, flashlights and matches to light the candles that guided the way throughout the cave….these candles would be one of our saving graces.

Together we admired the various stalagmite and stalactite formations and we ventured to the back of echo cave. The echos however impressed neither of us. After going through three tight birth canal crevasses and many large rooms we found the end and turned around. About ten minutes or so later we were not sure where to go. Since we had been lighting candles along the way we knew that we were on the right track because they served as substantiation of our path to daylight/freedom.

We looked in many different directions and entered into rooms that we previously had not visited. Both of us felt lost and discussed it openly. I would be lying if I said that I were not a bit scared, and Maria was becoming more worried with each passing moment. Even thought we eventually gathered that the misdirection lasted only 20 minutes or so (thanks to photo metadata capturing our times) it felt so much longer.

I told Maria to stay by the last candle and that I would look for our way out. She was not easy with the idea of me leaving her, but I could cover much more ground on my own. As I continued to find new places that I thought could be the way I ventured further and further from her. I went up, I went down and I really went all around trying to find this place out. Finally, I found a small hole that I had previously thought to be way to tiny for us to have passed through before. I chivied myself though this hole and turned off my flashlight. The very faint yellowish luminescent glow could be seen ahead of me. I knew this was now the way to go.

Maria had been yelling for me and while I could faintly hear her I did not respond with anything other than a loud whistle.

When I reached her I recommended that we leave that last candle lit….just in case. Previously we had been blowing out the candles as we passed them so that they could be lit by the next group of people. As we walked toward the proper direction Maria repeatedly asked me ¨WHERE´S THE CANDLE¨. All I could say is up ahead and relax we are going to be just fine.

When we finally got through the small opening and to the candle that showed us the way our smiles were as genuine as could be.

On a personal note I should say that in this time of uncertainty I was pretty proud of myself. While I became concerned regarding our lost direction I maintained a cool head and did not freak out. This would have been the worst thing possible since Maria was already doing this and someone had to keep their head on their shoulders to figure the way out.

I thought the experience was one of the best I have had yet. I would do it again in a heartbeat….getting lost and all!

On I moved to the town of El Estor and Rio Dulce. They both were pretty interesting. While Rio Dulce was a hustling transportation hub El Estor was a very relaxing and low key town.

In Rio Dulce I went to an old Castle on the river. It was built there in an attempt to keep English pirates from raiding Guatemalan horse caravans centuries ago. The castle itself was not very large, but considering that it is the first real one that I have personally visited I was quite impressed. The town of Rio Dulce itself was a bit dirty but full of its own character and charm.

El Estor is located on Izabel lake. This is the largest lake in Guatemala and very pretty. I spent the day swimming in the lake and relaxing on the shoreline. Accommodations in this town were around four dollars and I ate meals for only two bucks….pretty good for trying to not spend much money. There are not any pictures from this place since on my way to El Estor my camera did not make it off the bus with me. Therefore, I had to purchase a new one in Guatemala City. This is probably the worst thing for a budget traveler…considering that this is my third digital camera purchased in four months. At least I am spurring the worldwide economy, but I know that I am also limited my financial resources considerably. I was very frustrated with myself initially, but hopefully it is a lesson that I have learned well. The saddest part is that I know longer have the videos of me going down a water slide….Here is my confession about the camera.

Let´s go to Guatemala City to buy a new camera!!!!

Before I made it into Antigua I spent a few days in Guatemala City. This capital city has the reputation of being very dangerous. I am not sure where this comes from since I did not experience any adverse events personally. HOWEVER!!! I believe it!!! Just walking around and driving on public buses evidence of the city's poverty and crime levels were evident. I have never wanted a gun in my life, but I want one now. It is really gun envy. Shotguns and automatic weapons are prevalent to say the least. Nearly every store has an armed security guard out front. I mean even the little store that sells paper and stationary supplies to students has a guard.

On the public buses which costs 1Q (13 cents) there were one or two policemen. This is a new feature to the hundreds of buses that traverse the city daily. Recently a gang had been killing bus drivers in an attempt to bribe the bus operators into paying them money. The city responded by putting policemen in each bus, which surely must strap their resources. Either way it made me feel safe using this mode of transportation, and let me tell you this is the best way to travel around the city. Watching the people on the bus and through the window is very eye opening. Although, the business that transpires on the bus was most enlightening.
Almost as though it were coordinated a man or woman would stand near the front of the bus and begin to loudly speak. They had to shout since the old bus noises combined with the sounds of the city and other bus passengers. The speaker would dive into a product pitch for what ever they were selling for the day. I have seen calculators, candy bars, juice books, creams and other products being pitched. As soon as one would finish they would walk down the bus looking for interested customers. Following them another person wound stand at the front and start their own presentation. This is by far the best trial by fire way I have ever seen to practice the art of public speaking. If I were to stay in this country I would surely have to try my hand in this industry.

Salespeople address the passengers while the bus is moving. When the bus stops street vendors swarm the windows and sometimes enter the bus, even though briefly, to try and muster up sales. The entrepreneurial and hard working spirit is very strong in poor countries. People will do what ever it takes to put food on the table. There is much to be learned from this as I myself have bitched often about cushy/well paying jobs that I have had in the past. Obviously I had it very in comparison to others who I have come across. While I think often about my work history having a job in the future rarely crosses my mind. It is priceless to have no job and travel. However, this too shall pass.

I guess that part of the reason I was not accosted in Guatemala City is that I did not go out at night and stayed clear of shady characters. I would wake up early and go to the local pool hall. I considered this a classroom of sorts and I was the teacher. Dozens of Guatemalan youth would already bee at the pool hall at 9 AM. Obviously they were not in school. Excuses I heard were they did not have their complete uniform and would not be let in, they are in a music class and that they just did not want to go. Many of them would want to play pool against me, but ultimately they asked me to teach them a thing or too. Trying to teach someone anything in their native language that you roughly speak is quite the experience.

Here are the two policemen keeping everyone safe.

I found my brother´s pool hall but he was nowhere in sight.

Antigua is a really need tourist/market town just north of Guatemala, City. It is by far one of the biggest tourist draws in Guatemala. With what appears to be hundreds of hotels, travel agencies and restaurants it is no surprise that this city thrives off of tourism.

On the day I arrived we pulled into the back of the central market. At least 50 to 75 buses are parked in this area. They are constantly coming and going. Each one is uniquely painted and has a name. Interestingly the smaller buses or vans have the driver's wife's name written on the windshield. I surmised that this is so passengers instantly understood that the driver is spoken for and will not waste their time in hitting on them. Or it is just another caveat to the Machismo culture that I am continuing to learn about.

Below is a woman wrapping up the two dozen roses I bought for $1.25....I mean I had to!

The market is beyond bustling and hectic. I went every day.

You can see the soccer goal in the back view of this picture. They play soccer everywhere!

I hiked up a volcano on April 17th. Yes, that is right. I climbed in the rain, up a steep grade and on black sharp rocks to reach the summit. It was raining, and at times very hard. The thunder and lighting appeared to be at my same elevation at times. Around me women had there hair standing up straight on end due to the magnetism and electricity in the air. This adventure had many interesting and exciting features to it.

Pacaya Volcano even with the lack of flowing lava is a "must do" for anyone who is in Antigua. However, you will want to follow the suggestions given before departure. Bring water and food because the trip is seven hours. Wear closed shoes since the ground is sharp and steep. Bring a jacket in case it rains...it seems to everyday in the afternoons. You may want to bring marsh mellows to roast over the open lava pits. Also, I would recommend buying a walking stick or "stick" as the children call them to help you climb both up and down the volcano. FYI - The stick only costs 5 Q or quetzales (around 65 cents) and they will not repurchase them at the bottom, but they will ask for them back. I of course kept mine. I do not think that anyone would want it considering that one end is very burned, and it is 2/3 its original size.

Pacaya Volcano walk up the base of the mountain

Pacaya Volcano walk on cooled lava

Pacaya Volcano walking around on top steaming rocks

Pacaya Volcano....playing with fire & shortening a walking stick

On Lake Atitlan I took a boat taxi to Santa Cruz. This is a very small town right on a beautiful lake surrounded by volcanoes. I spent four nights here swimming, hiking around the lake, running from the sauna to the lake and back, cross dressing at the weekly dress up party and more. This place is incredible!

One day with two others we hiked for a few hours around the lake to San Marcos. This was an incredible hike to say the least. The views of the lake in combination with the little towns and houses with priceless views made the trip well worth it. By the end we were all really hot and went for a swim.

What a long hike!!!

Cliff Dive

After Lake Atitlan I traveled five hours to Coban and spent the night. First thing in the morning I took a chicken bus to Semuc Champey which is just outside the town of Lanquin on the Cahabòn River.

Semuc Champey is one of the coolest and prettiest places I have ever been. Cut out from limestone mountains a river creates a magical environment. The majority of river water goes under a series of seven pools. However, these seven pools get just enough water to sustain crystal clear pools and dozens of waterfalls.

I stayed in a hostel that was only a seven minute walk from Semuc Champey park. Originally I did not think I would be there that long, and four days turned out not to be enough. The park itself provided ample time for exploring underwater and out of water. A hike to the lookout point gave a tremendous view of the park below. It is basically in the jungle. So at times you would see wildlife such as howler monkeys, lizards and countless insects.

Beyond the park itself there were numerous things to do. With multiple rope swings, tall docks and a bridge to jump off of, caves to explore and a whole river to float down I did not want to leave. However, I found myself very sore each morning from the hours of exercise I would do each day. By day four I needed a vacation from vacation. To learn more about Semuc Champey visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semuc_Champey.

Two very nice Guatemalans gave me a ride from Semuc Champey to Guatemala City. All in all this turned out to be a seven hour ride or so. I slept most of the way, and was greatful not to be sitting in a very cramped bus....on my way to Semuc Champey I counted 26 people in our van built for 16.

Rope Swing 1